Jun Takahashi, born in 1969 in Gunma, Japan, initially had no aspirations to become a fashion designer. However, his time at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, where he studied under Hiroshi Fujiwara’s influence, exposed him to the world of streetwear and subcultures. In 1990, alongside his friend NIGO (who would later establish A Bathing Ape), Takahashi founded UNDERCOVER with the vision of merging rebellious punk aesthetics with Japanese craftsmanship. The brand’s motto, “We Make Noise, Not Clothes,” encapsulated its ethos from the very beginning.

UNDERCOVER quickly became a key player in the Ura-Harajuku movement, a subcultural phenomenon in the 1990s that redefined Japanese street fashion. With Tokyo’s Harajuku district as its breeding ground, UNDERCOVER gained popularity through experimental designs, graphic-heavy garments, and a DIY punk attitude. Takahashi drew inspiration from Western punk bands like The Sex Pistols and The Clash, infusing his collections with a raw, rebellious energy.

During the early ‘90s, UNDERCOVER released collections that blurred the lines between fashion and art, catching the attention of Japan’s youth. Simultaneously, the brand developed a cult following, leading to its first flagship store opening in Harajuku in 1993.

The Ura-Harajuku Movement and Early Success

UNDERCOVER quickly became a key player in the Ura-Harajuku movement, a subcultural phenomenon in the 1990s that redefined Japanese street fashion. With Tokyo’s Harajuku district as its breeding ground, UNDERCOVER gained popularity through experimental designs, graphic-heavy garments, and a DIY punk attitude. Takahashi drew inspiration from Western punk bands like The Sex Pistols and The Clash, infusing his collections with a raw, rebellious energy.

During the early ‘90s, UNDERCOVER released collections that blurred the lines between fashion and art, catching the attention of Japan’s youth. Simultaneously, the brand developed a cult following, leading to its first flagship store opening in Harajuku in 1993.

The early 2000s marked a turning point for UNDERCOVER. With the support of Rei Kawakubo (the mastermind behind COMME des GARÇONS), Takahashi made his Paris Fashion Week debut in 2002. This collection introduced UNDERCOVER’s ability to blend conceptual fashion with street sensibilities, earning international acclaim. Pieces from this era, such as deconstructed outerwear, distressed fabrics, and asymmetrical silhouettes, established UNDERCOVER as a serious force in high fashion.

Over the years, Takahashi continued to refine his avant-garde approach while staying true to his rebellious roots. UNDERCOVER’s collections often played with duality—chaos and elegance, destruction and beauty—an approach that resonated deeply with fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Modern UNDERCOVER: The Future of the Brand

Today, UNDERCOVER remains a dominant force in both streetwear and high fashion. The brand’s runway collections continue to push boundaries, with Takahashi exploring themes ranging from dystopian sci-fi to romanticism. UNDERCOVER’s influence can be seen in contemporary brands that merge fashion with storytelling and subcultural aesthetics.

Jun Takahashi’s dedication to his craft ensures that UNDERCOVER will continue evolving while maintaining its core identity. Whether through innovative designs, unexpected collaborations, or thought-provoking presentations, UNDERCOVER remains at the forefront of fashion, proving that noise-making is an art form in itself.

Conclusion

UNDERCOVER’s journey from a niche Harajuku label to an internationally celebrated brand is a reflection of Jun Takahashi’s visionary genius. Through its rebellious spirit, fearless experimentation, and boundary-pushing collaborations, UNDERCOVER has become one of the most important names in global fashion. As long as Takahashi continues to innovate, UNDERCOVER will remain a force to be reckoned with, inspiring generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

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